Zhang Huawei

這是范江濤第二次向珠穆朗瑪峰發起衝擊。2025年4月8日，曾因救人放棄登頂的攀登者范江濤從成都出發，計劃從中國西藏一側的北坡路線攀登珠峰。

A year ago, Fan Jiangtao stopped just 8450 meters from the summit of Mount Everest and resolutely turned to the climber in distress. This decision not only broke the convention of "no rescue on 0 meters", but also fixed his dream of reaching the top of the world in the ice and snow at an altitude of 0 meters.

4月10日下午，范江濤抵達拉薩與登山嚮導匯合，並在酒店接受了成都商報-紅星新聞記者的專訪。

I cried twice during the rescue

2023年5月14日淩晨1點，范江濤從珠峰大本營出發，踏上了漫長的登頂征程。按照原計劃，5月17日晚8點，他本該踏上最後的沖頂之路。然而轉折發生在C4營地：“我的冰爪被一個隊員穿錯了。”范江濤苦笑，“結果17號晚上，我只能眼睜睜看著別人出發，自己卻留在營地。”

5月18日下午5點，范江濤終於踏上沖頂之路，頭燈劃開夜色，冰爪在岩面上鑿出清脆的節奏，每一步都讓那座夢想中的山巔更近一分。“天氣好得不得了，我甚至在默默盤算，按這個速度，淩晨兩三點就能登頂，還有大把時間撤回大本營。”范江濤回憶時帶著顫音，“那種感覺，就像已經觸摸到了夢想的邊緣。”

When Fan Jiangtao climbed to an altitude of about 8400 meters, a female climber suspended from the rope broke into his field of vision - the down jacket she was wearing glowed with cold light under the headlamp, and the safety rope and descent were entangled in the rope, and the whole person had lost her mobility. "At that time, my first reaction was a hallucination, and after a while, I realized that I was a compatriot, and finally I opened her jumpsuit and found that she was actually someone I knew." Fan Jiangtao stared at the immobile figure, and the guide's anxious urging voice came from behind him - "Go up, leave her alone, you will definitely be able to reach the top today." ”

Fan Jiangtao walked forward more than ten meters under the urging of the guide, but suddenly stopped at a platform. "I stood there crying." He suddenly raised his voice, unbearable, struggling, and aggrieved, and all emotions came to his heart in an instant. Fan Jiangtao stared at the faint peak line above and told the guide: "Don't climb it, I'm going to save her." ”

范江濤將氧氣、熱水、手套等珍貴的物資給了那名登山者，在海拔8450米的生死線，他與嚮導合力托起遇險攀登者的身體艱難下撤，每寸挪動都需耗費數倍體力。當下撤至距離C4營地還有一百多米時，范江濤已筋疲力盡，此時該攀登者也再次陷入昏迷狀態。“我給她說你別亂動，我下去叫人救你。”范江濤向記者表示。

After walking 4 meters, Fan Jiangtao met his teammate Xie Ruxiang and his guide, and he once again saw the hope of rescue. "At that moment, my tears instantly welled up, carrying the exhaustion of retreating, the regret of not being able to reach the top, and the helplessness of not being able to complete the rescue, which were intertwined like mixed tastes." With the cooperation of the four of them, the climber in distress was eventually sent to Camp C0, where she gradually regained consciousness and strength after a night of recuperation.

The north and south climb together to test domestic equipment

Although he failed to reach the summit of Mount Everest due to saving people, Fan Jiangtao also obtained a certificate of climbing above 8000 meters above sea level issued by the expedition company. This means that he is eligible to sign up to climb Everest from the north face. "Choosing to climb from the north slope is choosing to speak to the harshest natural conditions. Personally, I would like to climb Mount Everest from the side of my motherland. Fan Jiangtao said.

It is reported that the mountaineering team composed of Fan Jiangtao, Song Xiaochen, Song Hong, and Ding Liang divided into two roads and tried to climb Mount Everest from the south and north slopes at the same time.

Fan Jiangtao revealed to reporters that as a scientific and technological worker, in addition to completing the unfinished dream of climbing Mount Everest, he also has his own research tasks. "This time we use domestic self-developed fabrics with the same performance, and we want to tell everyone through this climbing of the north and south slopes of Mount Everest that domestic fabrics can also cope with extremely harsh high-altitude environments, and can also achieve the world's top level."

Fan Jiangtao also showed off a blood glucose monitor attached to his arm. "This blood glucose monitor developed by the domestic scientific research team can monitor my blood sugar level in real time, and summarize the data and information from other testing equipment to the background, and through the back-end AI analysis system, combined with my blood pressure, blood sugar, blood oxygen and other key indicators, I can evaluate my physical state in real time and judge whether I can continue to climb."

In addition, according to Fan Jiangtao, the most important equipment for his climb to Mount Everest, the alpine coverall, has a built-in satellite direct antenna, which can provide climbers with all-weather services including high-precision satellite positioning, high-precision trajectory locking, satellite calls and emergency calls through the Beidou satellite system.

Even with the blessing of many "black technologies", Fan Jiangtao and his teammates still repeatedly deduced the route and formulated various emergency plans before the trip. When asked by a reporter what he would do if he encountered another person in distress during the climb, Fan Jiangtao was silent for a few seconds and replied: "I don't know how I will choose, but Mount Everest should remember my answer." (Chengdu Business Daily-Red Star News reporter Ye Yan)