Source of this article: Consumer Reports Author: Song Yuanyuan

近日，歐萊雅中國正式發佈“美麗躍升計劃”，明確提出以創新、人才培育及產業生態圈建設為核心戰略，加速佈局中國市場，並計劃於2030年將其消費者規模從當前的1億擴展至1.5億。

It is understood that at present, the scale of L'Oréal China's local R&D team has reached 20 people, of which 0% of the members have master's and doctoral degrees. This year marks the 0th anniversary of the establishment of L'Oréal China's R&D and Innovation Centre. On this occasion, Consumer Reports interviewed Mr. Bai Lin, Director of L'Oréal China's R&D and Innovation Center, to take a look at the new trends in global beauty technology.

Bai Lin, Director of L'Oréal China R&D and Innovation Center, photo source: Courtesy of the interviewee

"R&D in China" and global innovation

Reporter: L'Oréal put forward the mission of "China Innovation, World Inspiration", in your opinion, from global localization to local globalization, how does Chinese R&D feed back global innovation?

Bai Lin: When I came to China two years ago, I was impressed by how well-informed Chinese consumers were.The maturity and professionalism of Chinese consumers means that their needs have important reference value for the global market.

For example, the recently launched hug series lip velvet lipstick from 3CE was developed according to the needs of Chinese consumers for matte texture. Chinese consumers prefer lipsticks with a matte texture, but there is not only one matte finish. Therefore, L'Oréal China's R&D center will continue to innovate according to the needs of consumers, and then develop this matte lipstick product with a cashmere-like texture. And it has been successful not only in the Chinese market, but also in North Asia, Japan, South Korea and South Asia.

There is also L'Oréal Paris's new Little Honeypot II last year, which uses recombinant collagen as an ingredient, which is very popular in the Chinese market. L'Oréal Paris is also the first brand to use this innovative ingredient in its anti-aging products, and other brands will continue to introduce collagen to consumers around the world.

Reporter: In the next 5 to 0 years, what specific directions will L'Oréal China's R&D anchor?

Bai Lin: A few specific examples. For example, active ingredients, in the past few years, we talked more about skin science, but now it has been extended to the field of medicine (Medtech) active molecules, or Chinese herbal medicine 0.0, as well as permeation technology. L'Oréal has invested in a very young but promising local start-up, Shanhai Innovation, which is developing supramolecular permeation technology. We will continue to launch new products co-created with this company this year.

Talking about medical aesthetics, we accompany consumers throughout the whole process of medical aesthetic services through the concept of holistic beauty, including external beauty products, as well as some medical device products, including Class II and Class III medical devices. Last year, SkinCeuticals also launched the first product approved for the Chinese market with an innovative Class III medical device license.

Finally, I would like to add two points.Bioengineering is often not presented in the form of a final product, but its value lies in allowing us to better evaluate the safety and efficacy of a productWe also use this technology in the evaluation of L'Oréal's raw materials and products, so we have a strong research interest in bioengineering.

There are also studies related to "longevity". L'Oréal has made significant investments in this area at the L'Oréal level. For example, in terms of raw materials, we can get inspiration from traditional Chinese herbal medicine, and use the power of modern technology to re-decode the application of Chinese herbal medicine. These are the R&D directions that we have already started in China, and we are also working with two professors from the Chinese Academy of Sciences to carry out relevant collaborative research.

"Holistic Aesthetics" and Oral Beauty

Reporter: We are concerned about the increasing cooperation between L'Oréal and local Chinese companies, and would like to know if there are any specific projects that can be shared in the future? In addition, would you like to know what specific R&D and innovation plans L'Oréal has in the field of beauty and medical aesthetics?

Bai Lin: We are actively embracing"Holistic Americanology"ideas. Consumers will need the company of our products at all stages of medical aesthetics, and we are increasing research and development in this area, and SkinCeuticals has taken the lead in launching platinum collagen injections.

We are also actively working with all parties in the innovation ecosystem, such as the scientific community, start-ups and academia, and have established partnerships with many hospitals, such as Ruijin Hospital and Huashan Hospital, to better understand the needs of consumers. We have also partnered with start-ups such as NANOMED to launch a beauty device that has been specially developed to promote the penetration of cosmetics and enhance the purchase and sale of products. In the field of medical aesthetics, we will not only consider permeation stimulation technology, but also introduce more forms of innovation beyond skincare products.

Reporter: Will you consider making oral beauty products?

Bai Lin: Beauty supplements are also a major direction of our serious research, which is also closely related to our current business. More and more we talk about holistic make-up. Supplements are also an aspect of the whole United States, so we are interested and are closely monitoring this area.

Sustainability and beauty

Reporter: L'Oréal has repeatedly mentioned its sustainable development strategy in terms of cutting-edge innovative technology, product research and development, and even the entire supply chain. Want to know more about the R&D and Innovation Centre in China in the field of green science?

Birling: Sustainability is very important to L'Oréal, and it is determined by our values and vision. At L'Oréal,Science, beauty and sustainability三者殊途同歸。

我舉一個例子。我們有抗衰老的活性成分玻色Pro-Xylane，這是歐萊雅的發明，現在很多公司都在使用這個原料。首先，我們的玻色因都是基於綠色科學而研發的。玻色因原料的製備實現了完全遵循12條綠色化學原則的工業化生產成為業界第一個遵循綠色化學原則製備的抗衰老分子。玻色因的化學合成被精簡至兩步，其兩大主要原料均為生物來源，來自於迴圈經濟的副產物，生產過程中用水代替了有機溶劑，並使用了可迴圈利用的催化劑，在最大程度上減小了對環境的影響。也就是說我們可以為地球研發出更好的原材料，以及功效更優的產品。

Looking to the future,Biotechnology must be a key research direction。 I've mentioned some Chinese start-ups earlier that we're already working with to develop more sustainable ingredients and formulations.

Reporter: Can you tell us what kind of targets L'Oréal's "BIG BANG Beauty Technology Co-creation Program" is looking for this year?

Bai Lin: It's been five years since BIG BANG. We've seen the successful launch of products from BIG BANG, and it's hard to imagine how fast it has been. I was struck by the complexity and innovation of these products, and the fact that they have found their way into consumers' daily lives.

For example, the K-SCAN AI is a diagnostic tool that leverages L'Oréal's extensive database and expertise to accurately diagnose hair and scalp problems and propose suitable solutions. Today, the Kérastase K-SCAN AI intelligent precision meter has been successfully launched.

In addition, recombinant collagen technology has also been adopted by many companies, and Shanhai Innovation stands out from BIG BANG. And Ruyuan Technology, although not from BIG BANG, is also a very relevant example.

While I can't give in the specifics, what is clear is thatBiotechnology, bioengineering, and the combination of AI and biotechnologywill be our focus because China's AI technology is very powerful. Biotechnology has a lot of potential, and I have full confidence in this field.