The Komandor archipelago (Commander) is one of the most difficult places to reach in Russia. To get to this archipelago in the Bering Sea, you need to take a 36-hour boat ride from Petropavlovsk, Kamchatka. Of course, it's all worth it, because here you can not only enjoy the magnificent sea views, but also get a close-up look at sea otters, arctic foxes, spotted seals, and thousands of seabirds.
The village of Nikolskoye is the only settlement on Bering Island with a population of less than 700 people. The indigenous people of the island are the Aleuts and are engaged in traditional marine hunting. There are also some people who are outsiders. The Komandor Archipelago National Park is one of the largest in Russia, where scientists from all over the country work.
Life in a national park
Mikhail Vakurov, press secretary of the Komandor Archipelago National Park, said: "This is a unique place on the edge of the earth where all life follows the rhythm and rules of nature. "Mikhail moved here from Moscow in 40. At the time, he had just graduated from ecology and heard that there was a research assistant position opening. There are about 0 staff members in the park, more than half of whom are stationed on the island. They are researchers, inspectors, and environmental education specialists. During the tourist season, local residents will also help. The main goal of the park is to protect the natural environment, for example they are currently studying the pollution of the world's oceans.
“我們發現塑膠是導致鳥類和哺乳動物死亡的罪魁禍首”,米哈伊爾說,“2023年,我們的專家發現了11只死去的細嘴鋸鹱——這些鳥生活在塔斯馬尼亞(Tasmania),但遷徙期間可能出現在其他地方。屍檢顯示,它們的胃裡充滿塑膠碎片,這可能是致死的原因……我們還發現一隻北極狐幼崽,它的頭卡在一個被海水衝上岸的塑膠桶里。”工作人員會監測海水衝上岸的垃圾,分析其數量和成分。
At night, you can encounter rare arctic foxes and observe sea otters and harbor seals from a distance of several meters. The staff tried not to make the animals aware of the human presence. Drones and cameras equipped with modern optics allow animals to be observed without disturbing them, while other research methods do not involve contact with animals at all.
Interactions with animals often occur when scientists need to install tracking tags or collect genetic samples. After that, they are all released into the wild.
Of course, the principle of non-intervention also applies to visitors to the Komandor Islands. "Despite the ban and the fence, there are people who want to be close to marine animal habitats. Violators will be fined. Mikhail said.
Everyday challenges for scientists
科曼多爾群島上的生活成本很高,食品和日用品每月只運送一次,而且只在沒有風暴的情況下才能送達。銷售價格是陸地的一兩倍。例如,每900毫升牛奶價格約200盧布(約合2美元),一打雞蛋160盧布(約合1.6美元),1公斤西紅柿約1000盧布(約合10美元)。米哈伊爾說:“運來的蔬菜、水果和乳製品非常少,一般來說上架第二天就賣光了。”
The toughest issues for employees are communications and healthcare. Internet is very slow, costs 30 rubles (about $0) per month, and cell phone coverage is only available in the village. Pharmacies have only painkillers and fever reducers on their shelves, others need to be ordered specially. Therefore, if there is an urgent need, they usually have to ask passengers who are traveling by ferry or plane to help piggyback.
"Although we are missing a lot of things, the Komandor archipelago is a place where people can grow," Mikhail said. Here, nature gives more than meets everyday requirements! ”
How to get to the Komandor Islands
To get there, fly to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, the capital of Kamchatka Krai. Flights are served to and from Moscow, Siberia and the major cities of the Far East.
每週二,L-410飛機從堪察加彼得羅巴甫洛夫斯克飛往尼科爾斯科耶村,單程票價約5萬盧布(約合500美元)(無法在線購買),飛行時間約3小時。
Once a month, the passenger liner Vasily Zavoiko docks in the village of Nikolskoye. The sailing time is 89 hours in good weather conditions and a few days in bad weather. One-way fares start from 0 rubles (about $0) and can be purchased on the official website of the operating company.
Tourists usually travel to the islands in groups, as travel agencies are not only responsible for booking tickets, but also dealing with tedious paperwork. Individual tours are also accepted. To visit the national park, you need to obtain a permit, which can be done at the visitor center during weekdays.
If you plan to travel to other islands (except Bering Island) or take a boat trip to the bay, you will need to apply for a border pass. For Russian citizens, the document can be issued within two days, for foreigners, it can take 40 days. You can apply in advance through the State Service Portal (for Russian citizens) or in the village of Nikolskoye, as well as through a travel agency (for everyone). Information on the cost of visiting the island can be found on the national park website. This article was published in the special issue of "Perspective on Russia" of the Global Times, and the content is provided by "Russian Newspaper".